Longitudinal and transverse thread. Everyone knows that fabrics are made from threads that are intertwined in a certain way. Different weaves of threads give different textures to the fabric: smooth, fleecy, embossed. If you magnify the fabric surface many times, you can see what kind of woven pattern the threads form. When cutting fabric, the concept of grain thread is important and how to define it. Any dressmaker should know this. In addition to the longitudinal or lobar, there is also a transverse thread. Together they form the surface of the fabric. The grain thread runs along the edge of the fabric. The transverse one lies perpendicular to it - along the cut of the fabric.
Methods for determining the lobar thread. There is a simple way to determine the grain thread on fabric. You need to take the canvas with both hands along the edge and try to tighten and loosen the material. When weaving, the warp threads lie flat and with great tension, which prevents the fabrics from further deforming. The tension of the transverse threads - weft - is weaker, so they shrink less than the warp of the fabric. The fabric along the edge almost does not stretch - this is the grain thread. If you tug the material along the cut line, it will be more elastic. This is a longitudinal thread. There is also an oblique line - the tension occurs along the diagonal of the weave of the threads. Here the fabric is the most stretchable and elastic. It is enough to remember how a scarf stretches, which is folded at an angle and tied around the neck. In fleecy fabrics, the pile lies in the direction of the lobar threads.
Weave of fabric threads. Different fabrics have threads that are woven differently. The way the threads are twisted together determines what kind of fabric you get at the end. The most common is plain weave. This is how cotton fabrics are made, such as calico, chintz and other bedding, linen dress fabrics, and wool. With twill or diagonal weaving, ribbed or striped materials are obtained, for example, corduroy. In this case, one lobar thread overlaps two longitudinal ones or vice versa. There are also satin and satin weaves. This fabric has a smooth shiny surface. This effect is achieved by applying 4-8 warp threads to one weft thread or vice versa. These are the main types of weave of threads in woven fabric. There are other, more complex combinations that form the direction of the threads to create various fabrics.
Cut. When cutting garments, an important point is to adhere to the grain thread. If this is not done, the finished product will be deformed after washing and will lose its aesthetic appearance. The fabric is cut only along the edge. On finished patterns from magazines, the direction of the grain thread is always marked. This line must be extended to the end of the pattern. When laying a piece of paper on the material, this line should be parallel to the edge or grain. Then the pattern is pinned, outlined with tailor's chalk and cut out with seam allowances. Some parts need to be cut along an oblique line. This is also indicated on the pattern. This part is laid parallel to the diagonal of the fabric. The appearance and durability of the finished item will depend on how the directions of all the threads on the fabric are correctly determined and the product is cut clearly in accordance with these threads.
A beginning seamstress should have an understanding of the structure of fabric. The fabric consists of multiple weaves of longitudinal (warp) and transverse (weft) threads. Normally, the warp and weft should form a right angle with each other. The correct placement of cut details on the fabric will be of great importance in the process of sewing clothes. To complete a thread a beautiful and wearable product that fits your figure, one of the initial stages of work will be determining the longitudinal thread of the woven cut.
You will need
- - a piece of working fabric;
- - instructions for patterning the product.
Instructions
The easiest way to find a thread basics fabric - choose a long piece with a non-fraying weaving edge on the left and right. Feel the edges of the material - they should be especially dense. It is along the edge line that the main a thread.
Try stretching the fabric in different directions. The cut will be difficult to pull in the direction of the grain thread; the transverse thread will be more tensile. This is due to the peculiarities of manufacturing the material: initially, very strong long threads are pulled onto the machine - rigid, twisted, capable of withstanding a large stretch. The space between them is filled with shorter threads - they are soft, fluffy and flexible.
During a sharp stretch, the matter will emit soft sounds: more sonorous (the lobar is stretched a thread) or deaf (it is produced by weft threads). You can also determine the basis of a fabric by its sound using individual components. Pull out threads from a piece of working fabric, between which there is a right angle. Play them as if you were playing the strings of a guitar, pulling the ends sharply several times.
Hold the fabric up to the light. You will see that some threads of the fabric lie at the same distance from one another; they are stretched almost exactly in a straight line. This is the weaving base. But the transverse threads will lie at different distances from each other, and they will also be slightly curved.
Do not neglect the advice of experienced tailors on the pattern of your chosen clothing model. You cannot lay out the cut details on the fabric in any order! Typically, parts of the product need to be laid in such a way that the vertical of the shelf (back, sleeves, waistband, hem, etc.) always lies parallel to the weaving edge. In this case, the finished item will acquire the desired silhouette and will not stretch after the first wash.
The grain thread, or warp thread, refers to how the work of the loom is directed in the process of making fabric. Tailors and cutters need to know how to determine it. The base is the main indicator of a stable and low-stretch material. Used as a key characteristic when designing and cutting fabric. Further in the article we will talk about the correct and quick determination of the warp thread.
Types of fabric
Before moving on to the definition of a fractional thread, you need to understand the types of matter. These include:
- A material characterized by an organized lattice weave. It is made on looms.
- Knitwear - which has different types of weave. The resulting fabric is elastic and is a configuration of loops that are arranged in columns and rows.
- They are made from synthetic fiber, which has no direction of structure. These include non-woven fabric and padding polyester.
Having an idea of the structure of the fabric, you can quickly determine its basis. Next we will talk about its exact establishment.
Fabric structure
If you examine the material in detail, you can see the perpendicular intersection of two fabric systems.
When comparing lobar and transverse threads, we can conclude that they have some differences. The former give stronger shrinkage than the latter. This is explained by the fact that during weaving the warp threads are stretched tighter than the weft threads. They are located quite freely. When exposed to steam, the warp threads return to their original position, and the fabric shrinks along its length.
The thread that runs parallel to the working of the loom is called the warp. Its second name is shared thread on fabric. Along its edge, the density of the production increases, so a strong and unraveling edge is formed. It was called the edge.
Features of the location of the warp thread
To accurately determine the lobar thread, you need to know the following:
- The warp is always located along the edge of the fabric.
- The combed pile is located in the direction of the pile.
- If you hold a low-density fabric up to the light, you will notice that the warp is more linear than the weft.
- In half-wool and half-linen fabrics, the grain thread is cotton.
- In semi-silk fabric, the warp thread is silk.
- The warp density in most fabrics is greater than the weft density.
Mark the direction of the grain thread on the pattern using an arrow.
To clarify the location of the base, use the following tips:
- If the matter is new, then it is difficult to make a mistake, because it is located along the edge. The lobar differs from the transverse in its low extensibility. The piece of fabric is pulled in the hands, lengthwise and crosswise. Where the material is less elastic, that is where the lobar thread is located.
- You can determine the location of the threads by sound. To do this, you need to sharply pull the fabric along the lobar, as a result you will hear a loud pop. In the opposite direction the sound is duller.
- The tissue can be further examined in the light. Visually it will be noticeable that the warp threads are smooth, dense and even. They are more twisted compared to transverse ones.
If there is an edge on the material, then the same method is used as on other materials. The grain thread will be parallel to the edge of the knitted fabric.
In the case when it is cut, determining the location is easy. You should look carefully at the canvas: where the posts and loops are visible. The direction of the columns corresponds to the location of the base.
Certain varieties of knitted fabric must be handled with care, because their loops can unravel, forming “arrows”.
On some varieties of such fabric, the direction of the threads is determined along the edge, which is wrapped in a tube. The canvas is positioned evenly along the base.
There are no rows of loops on the loose fabric, and if you cut off the edge, determining the direction of the warp becomes a difficult task. However, there are secrets according to which the lobe thread can be accurately determined on any fabric.
To do this, take a piece of fabric and bring it to a light source (window or lamp). The warp threads are usually more evenly spaced than the transverse threads and are better visible.
Some cutters and tailors quickly determine not only the location of the warp, but also the front and back sides. This is not difficult to do. That's why they inspect the fabric before cutting it.
The front part is usually smooth, and imperfections in the form of nodules and irregularities appear on the wrong side. There are holes along the edge of the fabric - they are retained after the material is released from the machine.
If you carefully examine them, the needle entry and smooth surface will correspond to the wrong side, and the exit and rough fabric will correspond to the front side.
When placing patterns on fabric, you should mark the direction of the warp on each piece. If you do not follow these recommendations, the finished product will lose its appearance and stretch after washing.
Cutting fabric
The process is carried out along the edge. In magazines, finished patterns have the location of the grain thread already marked. The line is extended to the end of the pattern.
When laying it on the fabric, the line is placed parallel to the edge and base. The pattern is pinned, outlined with chalk and cut out with seam allowance. Individual parts are cut out along an oblique line. This arrangement is indicated on the pattern. The part is laid out parallel to the diagonal of the fabric.
Depending on how the craftsman determines all the directions of the threads on the fabric and in accordance with their location, the product is cut. The appearance and service life of finished clothing depend on this.
How to make allowances when cutting a product?
All patterns are made without special seam allowances; during the work process they are outlined along the contours of the parts when placed directly on the fabric. The width on the sides of the products is 1.5 cm, 4 cm on the bottom edge and sleeves, unless otherwise provided.
When cutting a model made of knitted fabric, allowances are reduced to 0.5-1 cm. After all, in this case they are stitched using an overlocker.
When cutting parts with a fold, they should be laid out not only along the warp thread, but also along the fold of the fabric, right to the edge. In such a situation, it is not recommended to make allowances. After the final layout on the material, all the details are pinned with needles and outlined with tailor's chalk. Control lines are also marked.
Accurate determination of the location of the grain thread is necessary to ensure that the result is a well-sewn garment. In addition, you need to take into account the silhouette and type of fabric. The necessary arrangement of parts and a large number of other technical subtleties make it possible to realize the designer’s idea in obtaining a special product.
How to determine a shared thread? In order for the product not to lose its shape, you need to correctly determine the grain thread, and this article will tell you how to do it correctly. How to determine a shared thread?
We know from school craft lessons that all fabrics have a warp and a weft. These are two sides of the fabric running perpendicular to each other, with the longitudinal threads being the warp of the fabric, and the transverse threads being the weft. Correct determination of the grain thread is very important when cutting, because on the pattern its direction is indicated by arrows and it is in this direction that the fabric should be laid out. If the shared thread is determined incorrectly, then the cutting will also be performed incorrectly. In the future, the finished product will spread and stretch out during wear in inappropriate places.
The basic rule for determining the lobe thread is as follows: it is located in the direction where the least stretch is needed. The most striking example of the correct definition is the sleeve pattern - with it it does not stretch or lengthen, but...
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Before you start working with fabric, you need to have an idea of its structure.
In this regard, fabrics differ from each other in the way the threads are interwoven or in the absence of both threads and weave.
In any case, you can find general patterns when working with any fabric. And first of all, this is the rule of the shared thread or simply the shared thread.
Most fabrics consist of interlacing threads arranged perpendicular to each other: warp threads running along the fabric and weft threads running across:
scheme of binding of lobe and cross threads scheme of binding of lobe and cross threadDuring manufacturing, both edges of the fabric along its length are reinforced with edges that are stronger and denser than the main fabric.
The direction of the edge coincides with the direction of the warp thread (separated thread).
Also, by the edge you can determine the front and back sides of the fabric as the front side...
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RULES FOR CUTTING FABRICS
HOW TO CORRECTLY FLOW OUT FABRIC FOR CUTTING
Find the right side of the fabric (cutting is usually done from the back). Many materials have a clear front and back side. On fabrics with a pile such as corduroy or velvet, the pile usually has a certain direction, so they need to be cut so that the pile on the finished product lies in one direction. When cutting in 2 layers, fold the material with the right side inward. There are different ways to determine the front and back sides. Sometimes this can be recognized by the way the fabric is folded or rolled. Linen and cotton fabrics are most often wound into rolls with the right side facing out, and silk and wool - with the right side inward. If the roll is long, the fabric is usually. roll up with the front side inward. Typically the front side is shinier than the back side, with the exception of shiny materials such as brocade, where a shiny design is woven onto a matte background. On twill fabrics...
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Probably everyone remembers from school days that any fabric has a warp and a weft - two sides perpendicular to each other. The lobe threads make up the warp of the fabric, and the transverse threads make up the weft. Determining the grain thread is very important when cutting, on patterns the direction of the grain thread is shown by an arrow, it is according to this arrow that you need to lay out your fabric. How can you find out in which direction the lobe threads run on your cut?
Sponsor of the placement P&G Articles on the topic "How to determine the grain thread" How to sew stretch How to thread the thread into a sewing machine How to sew a bedding for a sled
Instructions
Various degrees of thread tension...
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DICTIONARY OF SEWING TERMS
STITCH - make a separate stitch along the edge or seam of a garment.
Very often the product is stitched “to the edge” - this means that you need to retreat 0.1 - 0.2 cm from the edge.
The expression “to the width of the foot” is also often used - this means aligning the outer edge of the sewing machine foot with the edge of the product and stitching at a distance of 0.5 - 0.7 cm. (see photo - contrasting thread stitching on the left by 0.1cm, on the right by 0.5cm).
To perform finishing stitches at a large distance from the edge of the product, use a ruler, which is usually found in the stock of your sewing machine.
For finishing stitches, regular sewing threads, single or double, buttonhole threads, or special threads for decorative stitches are often used. Stitching with a double needle for a sewing machine looks beautiful.
TURNING - a separately cut part for processing a cut of a product and always repeating this cut.
Usually a separate...
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Determining the right side of the fabric and the grain thread
Determining the right side of the fabric.
To determine the right side of the fabric, you first need to find out what type of weave the threads of this fabric have. After all, the fabric consists of two systems of threads intertwined at right angles: longitudinal threads - the warp and transverse threads - the weft.
The main weaves are plain, diagonal or twill, satin or satin. Plain weave is the most common. In this case, one weft thread overlaps one warp thread. This weave has the same surface on both sides. Calico, calico, most linen fabrics, and dress fabrics made from natural and artificial silk and wool are produced with this weave. The right side of plain-dyed fabrics with a plain weave is considered to be the one that looks cleaner, is better finished, and has less fluff. In printed fabrics, a pattern is applied to the front side.
Diagonal, or twill weave, forms...
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It is very important to follow the direction of the thread. The grain thread is the warp thread of the fabric (runs parallel to the edge). The correct appearance of the finished product largely depends on the accurately selected longitudinal direction of the fabric when cutting. Lay out the pattern pieces on the fabric so that the marking of the direction of the grain thread is parallel to the edge. To do this, extend the line of the grain thread to the bottom of the pattern, pin it onto the fabric with a pin only at the upper end of the pattern, measure the distance from the line of the grain thread to the edge and pin the other end of this line at the same distance. Then secure the pattern with pins along the entire contour. Pin the remaining parts onto the fabric in the same way.
The main signs of determining the warp thread in fabric:
1. The warp always goes along the edge of the fabric;
2. Backcombed pile is located in the direction of the base;
3. When examining low-density fabric against the light, you will notice that the warp is positioned more evenly and straightly than the weft.
4. In half-woolen and...
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Instructions
The grain thread always runs along the edge of the fabric.
If there is no edge on your cut, you can determine the grain thread by pulling the fabric: the warp threads are stretched tightly when weaving, and the weft threads go more freely, so the grain thread is less stretchable. For the same reason, it is along the grain thread that the fabric shrinks more than through the weft.
Varying degrees of tension on the fabric threads allows for another test to determine the direction of the grain thread. Take the fabric at the edge with both hands at a distance of 7-10 centimeters. Straighten the fabric sharply in this area several times, and you should hear a pop. Due to the strong tension, the warp of the fabric produces a ringing clap, while the weft makes a duller sound.
If you look at the fabric under the light, you will see that some threads are located more evenly, others (perpendicular to the first) - more unevenly. The lobe thread runs in the direction of more uniform threads.
If the fabric has a fleece, it is usually located along...
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In order for the product we sew to retain the desired shape, it is important to have a good understanding of what a lobe thread is.
If the direction of the grain thread is not observed when cutting, the finished item may become skewed, and during wearing it will stretch out in completely unnecessary places. There may be other unpleasant consequences.
Any fabric is an interweaving of grain and weft threads (the so-called weft). When a product is cut, in most cases, the direction of the grain thread is located along the length of the product. (That is, from top to bottom, or from bottom to top, which is the same thing :)).
The weft thread is located along the width of the product.
The exceptions are those rare options when the grain thread is placed along the width of the product, or, in general, diagonally. This is done to create special shapes of the product. (For example, special flowing silhouettes, tight fitting, draperies). But that’s not about that now :).
On patterns, the direction of the grain thread is marked with straight lines with arrows at the ends.
As I already...
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As already noted, cutting fabric is an important step in sewing any product. You can read about cutting fabric, taking into account the identification of the front side, defects, pile and pattern here.
In this article we will talk about cutting fabric depending on the direction of the grain thread.
Direction of the grain thread
When cutting, it is very important to take into account the direction of the grain for each detail of the product pattern. This is important for good drapability of the model.
The grain thread is parallel to the edge of the fabric. If you have a piece of fabric without an edge, then pull the fabric in different directions: the grain thread will run in the direction of the least stretch.
The pattern pieces are laid out on the fabric so that the grain direction indicated on the pattern is parallel to the edge of the fabric. To do this, first extend the direction arrow of the grain thread to the bottom edge of the paper pattern piece. Then pin the lower part of the part onto the fabric, determine from the arrow on the pattern to the edge of the fabric....
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Direction of lobar threads, transverse and oblique
When sewing products, you should always take into account the direction of the threads in the fabric. This is the basis for competent tailoring. In order to understand how to identify a lobar thread, as well as an oblique thread and a transverse thread, we have prepared pictures and descriptions that will help you better understand and remember the basic things.
Fractional direction of threads
The threads in the fabric are arranged along the lobar - this is the direction in which the warp threads go - and along the transverse - this is the direction in which the weft thread goes. The fractional direction is parallel to the edge. The weft should be perpendicular to the grain, at right angles to the edge. Before laying out the paper pattern, be sure to determine the direction of the grain. In clothes this direction usually goes from the shoulder to the hem, and in curtains it goes from top to bottom.
Look at the picture how to determine the direction of the lobar and transverse, as well as oblique threads
Observe the direction of the grain thread in the fabric very...
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In sewing clothes, every needlewoman comes across such a term as a thread; it is necessary for correctly cutting the fabric.
The grain thread always runs along the edge of the fabric, so if you pull the fabric along the grain thread, it will hardly stretch, and this is explained by the fact that the grain thread is the direction of the warp thread; they often shrink more than the transverse threads of the fabric.
So we figured it out how can you determine the lobar thread:
Threads along the edge;
Not stretchable.
On paper patterns this term is marked with a special line with an arrow.
Making flounces and folds - cut on the bias
Incredibly beautiful folds are formed if you use bias cutting, i.e. at an angle of 45 degrees, if this is not observed, then cuteness can also fade into the background.
How to find those treasured 45 degrees?
First of all, pay attention to the marking of the direction of the grain thread on the paper pattern and...
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The grain thread is the warp thread of the fabric, as well as a line applied to the pattern or pattern of a piece of clothing and showing the longitudinal direction of the warp thread in the piece. In current practice and in the technical conditions for cutting, it is provided for the direction of the warp threads along the parts with allowed deviations that do not affect the quality and fit of the finished product. If provided by the model, the warp thread can go in a different direction. For example, when cutting out parts along an oblique line, when it is necessary to obtain a certain volumetric effect, the warp thread can be located at a certain angle to the part (details of flared products, finishing elements such as flounces, frills, frills, etc.). On parts patterns, as well as on patterns in fashion magazines, the warp thread and its direction are indicated by an arrow.
Any fabric has a warp and a weft - two sides perpendicular to each other. The lobe threads make up the warp of the fabric, and the transverse threads make up the weft. Determining the grain thread is very important when cutting; on patterns the direction of the grain thread is shown by an arrow; it is according to this arrow that the fabric must be laid out.
How to find out in which direction the lobar threads run on a cut of fabric?
Instructions:
- The grain thread always runs along the edge of the fabric.
- If there is no edge on the cut, you can determine the grain thread by pulling the fabric: the warp threads are stretched tightly when weaving, and the weft threads run more freely, so the grain thread is less stretchable. For the same reason, it is along the grain thread that the fabric shrinks more than through the weft.
- Varying degrees of tension on the fabric threads allows for another test to determine the direction of the grain thread. You need to take the fabric at the edge with both hands at a distance of 7-10 centimeters. Sharply straighten the fabric in this place several times, and you should hear a pop. Due to the strong tension, the warp of the fabric produces a ringing clap, while the weft makes a duller sound.
- If you look at the fabric under the light, you can see that some threads are located more evenly, others (perpendicular to the first) - more unevenly. The lobe thread runs in the direction of more uniform threads.
- If the fabric has a fleece, it is usually located along the grain thread.
- If in cloth fabric there are cotton threads in one direction and wool in the other, then the wool threads are always weft.
- Knitted fabric stretches in different directions, but in different ways: along the warp the knitwear is pulled into a tube, and across the warp - like an accordion.
- If the direction of the grain thread is not followed, the finished product may stretch out greatly, quickly lose its shape, or fit incorrectly on the figure.
